Greece

The strong northwesterly wind that carried us to the south end of Sicily and into the Ionian Sea soon fizzled, leaving us with light winds alternating with lighter winds. With some patience and some motoring we arrived in due time (on Sept 10) in Pylos, a town and designated port of entry on the Peloponnese Peninsula of Greece. With even more patience, actually four days of patience, we were duly checked into the country. Due to the budget cuts the customs officer needed to split his time between two ports. Thankfully while waiting for clearance we were allowed to anchor anywhere in the large Ormos Navarinou bay and explore and enjoy walks and restaurants. Once all copies of the TEPAI and Transit Log were stamped and in order, we hoisted the Greek courtesy flag and moved on down the coast. We sailed by day and anchored or moored each night.

We’re in Greece!

Peter imagining rowing galleys of ancient times pulled up to the semicircular beach

We climb hills when we can

A half buried cannon makes a fine mooring post

Irene alone under the sun

Beautiful little chapel

Ginger leaves a beautiful little chapel

Exploring Old Navarino Castle

Methoni Castle

Methoni structures

Ginger at Old fort

The weather was wonderful, with warm air and clear skies night and day. The water was warm and inviting and we both swam and splashed in the anchorages. 

 

Sea creature

Making bubbles

Amused skipper wonders what the wee selkie is up to

Swimming was not as appealing when we were in villages and towns, so we passed our time with cafes and explorations. We must report that the quality of life aboard Irene was very good – the sailing easy, the food good, and the nights calm.

Impressions of this part of Greece:

• Greeks maintain things very well. Everything is swept, painted, trimmed, tended, or neatly repaired. It warms a sailor’s heart.
• Thrifty people live here, all sorts of old stuff (boats, houses, bikes, cars, tools) is kept in use.
• Grapes taste unimaginably good here.
• With no tide and sandy bottoms anchoring and mooring in Greece is easy.
• Moorage fees range from inexpensive to free.
• Evidence of ancient history is everywhere, accessible by trails and roads.

An overnight passage in the Aegean Sea brought us to Milos, the first of several Cyclades Islands we were to visit. A feared Meltemi wind was forecast, so we planned to stay a few days until it subsided. 

Still afloat despite a misguided government program of smashing up little old fishing boats in name of fish conservation

So many variations of mooring stern to

Dismount at Milos

The Meltemi brought surge into the bay, so to protect the windvane we moved Irene well off the dock. We rigged an overhead rope to help us swing ashore.

Row, row, row

The trusty dinghy got us to and fro when we anchored. We haven’t carried an internal combustion outboard since 2010. We row mostly, and have an reliable lightweight “EP Carry” electric outboard for special occasions. We honestly can’t figure out why rowing isn’t more common among cruisers. We’ve certainly enjoyed our freedom from buying, storing, lifting, maintaining, repairing and troubleshooting internal combustion outboards, often used to cross just a few hundred yards of water from vessel to beach. 

Exploring

Hunting

Inspecting

Sweet little vessel

Panormitis Monastery

We enjoyed exploring an abandoned town - Mikro Chorio on Tilos. The town has hundreds of abandoned houses, olive pressing stones scattered amongst dwellings and two churches amid ruins that are still whitewashed, maintained and attended. A tiny church, Christ the Savior 'Soteras' (built in 1430) was covered inside with frescoes while a larger and more elaborate Church of our Lady of Theotokissa stood watch over the only regular commerce in town - the Mikro Chorio Bar. This bar is an all night bar and music venue. It opens during the summer at 11PM and pumps out music all night. One can dance, sip a drink and take in the view of the lit ruins until sunrise. What inspired town planning - only the ghosts are disturbed at night, while down at the harbor the townspeople and yachts enjoy blessed quiet.

Church of our Lady of Theotokissa bell

We moved eastward through the Aegean islands - first the Cyclades and then into the Dodecanese group. 

A quiet pleasure – sipping wine while admiring the view, which includes the pretty Irene

Regional geopolitical conditions became starkly apparent as we check in with the authorities at our last Greek port of Kalimnos. Recently arrived refugees camp on the porch and stairs surround both the Port Police and the Immigration office. We are just a few miles from Turkey.

Freshly arrived used once refugee inflatables with Chinese outboard motors. They are not built to last, evidenced by unpainted plywood transoms and floorboards. Bare plywood doesn't last long in a marine environment.

Priest strolls past ferry unloading passengers

We are very close to Turkey. A well kept gulet flying the Turkish flag is anchored next to us.

On our last night in Greece, we sat on deck in the warm evening air and remembered the sights we had seen and the people we had met, and how thankful we were for our safe cruise through the country. The plan was to hoist anchor at first light, bound for Bozburun, Turkey.

Irene in sunrise glow